Changing car parameters
So, you're tired of driving ordinary cars and you want to mess with their parameters your own way. Or maybe you're creating your own car, and you don't like that you had to borrow its engine from another car, and you want something of your own. Well then, let's get to work. All you'll need is the program NFS Wizard and (preferably, though not necessarily) steady hands. ;-) So NFS Wizard is downloaded, a car has been chosen for abuse, and your (steady) hands are itching, eager to try something. Well, let's begin.
Open the car you need.(*.viv) We're only interested in 2 files:
fedata.eng - this defines all sorts of secondary information.
carp.txt - the most important file, carrying all the physical characteristics of the engine
and the car.
Open these files. In NFS Wizard there is a special field for each parameter. Let's go in order, starting with fedata.eng.
The General tab.
Identity and Serial - these are the car's "serial numbers". To avoid glitches, for all cars participating in a race these numbers must be unique. Therefore it's desirable to make them different for all your cars. (You'll have to do some work, of course, but at least the game won't crash)
Pursuit:
Yes - this is a police car (available in hot pursuit mode)
No - an ordinary car
No Mersedes or No Ferrari - this car cannot be used at all
in Hot Pursuit mode (I wonder who would think of setting such values?
;-)
AAA - not a car but a beast ;-) pushes up to 300 km/h and more
AA - a fairly fast car (roughly like a Porshe) up to 250 km/h and more
A - a normal car... up to 200 km/h and more
B - uhh...in polite society it's better not to show up in one of these ;-) no more than 180 km/h
Bonus:
Yes - a prize car (you have to do something to win it)
No - an ordinary car (our choice)
Yes - yes,
No - no, respectively.
Convertible - whether the car has a "removable top". If, when creating the car's geometry file, you made something like that for it (and accordingly named the needed part) - set Yes, otherwise leave No.
The Data tab.
Here you can write whatever nonsense you like - it won't change anything. Everything you change here is visible in the game only in Showcase. Tell me honestly, when did you last look there? ;-) (True, sometimes some people don't like that their GAZ-13 looks like a Ferrari F60 in Showcase :-) It's worth paying attention only to Car name - The car's name. What you put here will appear in the car selection menu, so it's better to make something clear (and preferably in English, since not everyone has the Russian version of the game)
The History/color tab
If you created the car yourself, then in the geometry file *.FCE you may have set several colors for it. Here you can give them nice names - for example, "Mokry Asfalt" or "Metallik" True, sometimes it happens that they get mixed up, and in the game the color "Sea Wave" turns out to be bright red ;-) Just in case, check. The History parameters are again visible only in Showcase, so just fill them in with your nice name ;-)
The Compare tab
And here you can rate your car. In the game this is used in career
mode, so here you can put in some effort. The maximum rating value is 20 (if
you set it higher, the game will glitch) But again, this does not affect the physical parameters
of the car.
Acceleration - acceleration As a rule, in class AAA from 15 and above; AA -
from 11 and above; A - from 6 and above; B - below 6.
Top Speed - max. speed. Usually 300 km/h is 15, 200 km/h is 5, and
accordingly intermediate values - in steps of 10 km/h.
Handling - a subjective feeling of how good the handling is. There are no
specific rules here...but, say, for a Porshe this parameter is 17, and for a traffic
car (a huge unwieldy bus) - 1.
Braking - how good the brakes are. Porshe - 14, Mersedes - 6.
Overall - how much you liked the car overall. Usually - the arithmetic mean
of the previous 4 values.
Price - The car's price in career mode. Maximum (class AAA) - 500,000,
minimum (class B) 25,000. Again, rate your car yourself, taking into account VAT
and other taxes ;-)
Well alright, that was all kindergarten entertainment. It's time to do something more
substantial and thermonuclear ;-) So let's finally move on to editing the carp.txt file.
This is exactly where all the physical parameters are located that define your car
and turn it into exactly the "Belarus" tractor you envisioned, or a "Ferrari F50",
or an F-15E "Strike Eagle" fighter :-). How it looks on the outside is not really
that important. (although the car's geometry still matters; it determines
the overall dimensions. Once, out of interest, I made a full-size MiG-29
- as a result it took up the whole road and got stuck in one of the barns on Hometown
:-) Also from that experience I found out that when calculating collisions the car is
not an object but a rectangular box; oncoming cars couldn't drive under the wing.
Actually, they crashed into the "air" in front of the plane's nose) Hmm...that was a lyrical
digression ;-) Let's move on!
The General tab
Serial number - the car's serial number. To avoid glitches, set it unique and the same as in fedata.eng.
Classification – This parameter is a holdover left from NFS3 and changes nothing.
Leave it as is. (for NFS 3 -
0=class A,
1=class B,
2=class C,
3=traffic/cop car)
Spoiler type – actually, it's unknown what this is. No consequences have been noticed when changing this. Usually it's 0, for cars with a spoiler (Mclaren) - 1, but what this changes is unknown.
Mass - The mass of the car. From physics it is known that mass is a quantity characterizing the ability of a body to resist inertia. ;-) Same here. The heavier your car, the better its grip on the road, and the worse it turns, and the harder it is to get it moving from a standstill. It is recommended to set the real value. Measured in kilograms.
Spoiler activation speed - Determines at what speed the force of the oncoming air flow pressing the car to the ground will be applied. The speed is measured in m/s. 0 means this function is disabled. For Porshe this parameter is set to 25 m/s.
Road Bumpiness factor - determines the quality of your car's suspension. Below 1 - this is a soft suspension, above 1 - already stiff. Usually it's from 0.6 to 1.2. For builders of hovercraft it is recommended to try 0.1. But 5 is a "Uazik" without shock absorbers as such ;-) Roughly speaking, the larger this value, the "bouncier" your car is off-road.
Top Speed - maximum speed. Strangely enough, this parameter affects only how much your speedometer will be able to show.
Maximum Velocity - maximum speed again. ;-) Why this is so is unknown. This parameter really does limit the actual speed.
Camera Arm - affects the virtual camera in replay. Don't touch it...you'll regret it yourself ;-)
Pitch-roll factor - this is another property of the suspension. Determines how much your car will rock on the shock absorbers. It doesn't affect handling and everything else much - but it looks great ;-) If you set a value of 5 or higher - the car will resemble a motorcycle racer balancing on turns with his body. ;-) A normal value is within 1.0
Subdivide level - unknown. Changes nothing.
Power Steering – apparently enables power steering. Slightly eases handling.
Antilock brakes - on/off unlocking of the wheels when braking. Try turning it off and feel the difference ;-) And if you like driving in a skid, like me - turn off this device, invented by a coward ;-).
Opponents - the driving level of the opponents (specifically for this car). Do with them as you wish ;-) Want to - give them a lobotomy (all parameters to zero), want to - turn them into monsters...
Gearing/Engine tab
These are the engine and transmission parameters. They can be set differently for manual gear shifting (manual) and automatic (auto). WARNING: Change anything here only if you know exactly what you are doing and what you want. Experiments can lead to unpredictable consequences. (well, it's not all that scary...in the worst case you just won't be able to get moving ;-) however making a beast of a car is actually not all that simple...)
Number of gears - the number of gears. Any car should have no fewer than three (reverse, neutral and forward) and no more than eight (reverse, neutral and six regular)
Final Gear - the final gear ratio for the car. The higher this
value, the faster the car accelerates, but the lower its maximum speed.
2.67 - acceleration is lousy, but it builds speed like nobody's business ;-)
3.23 - good speed, but it accelerates thoughtfully
3.65 - good on all counts
4.10 - accelerates quickly, but the maximum speed is not too high.
5.20 and above - for those who like to burn rubber at the start
Velocity to RPM - The ratio of the car's speed to the number of revolutions. It is calculated by a rather complex algorithm...but only if maximum fidelity to reality is required. Usually it's done like this - the maximum speed (in miles/hour) is taken and multiplied by the corresponding gear ratio (see below).
Gear ratios - Gear ratios. Shows how many revolutions the
engine will make per one revolution of the wheel. Set for each gear. There should be as many
numbers as there are gears in the field number of gears. First gear
- reverse, the value should be negative, the second - neutral, the value
- zero, the rest - positive. Example: -2.88,0,2.47,1.73,1.36,1.05,0.74
Here ready-made values are usually taken (real ones or from another car).
Gear efficiency - how efficiently the gear works. Usually here the values are 80%-95% (the rest is lost to friction).
Shift delay - the time interval between gear shifts. Accordingly, the smaller it is, the better ;-) Measured in its own units (1 unit = about 0.16 sec)
Minimum RPM - the engine speed at idle. Usually between 600 and 1200.
Redline RPM - maximum engine speed. Beyond this mark the engine starts to lose power and over-rev. For racing cars this value is usually between 8000 and 12500.
Front drive ratio - the share of power going to the front wheels. For all-wheel-drive cars - from 0.1 to 0.45. For rear-wheel-drive - zero. However, if you try to simulate a front-wheel-drive car (VAZ-2108 ;-) and put anything above 0.5 here, a surprise awaits you - handling will greatly deteriorate. Well, EA just doesn't like front-wheel-drive cars ;-) By the way, weight distribution in the game is not calculated, which means that in reality this parameter does not reflect the real state of affairs.
Shift blip - simply put, the time in milliseconds needed by the driver to move the gear lever from one position to another. It therefore applies in manual mode. The smaller this time, the better (ideally, if all are zeros ;-)
Brake blip - The same as Shift blip, but for shifting gears in reverse order.
Now the most difficult part - Torque Curve. (honestly, even I don't understand much here...if you want to figure it out better, you should take the documentation in English... ;-() What is this curve? It is the dependence of rotational torque (torque) on engine speed (how's that for a description? ;-) You can think of it like this: the Y axis - force (in newtons) per 1 kg of car weight, and the X axis - engine speed.
In this example (Porsche 911) the maximum torque is 540 N*m at 4500 rpm. At 6500 (which is exactly the Redline for this car) the torque drops sharply, imitating a loss of power. Therefore, in this car you should drive at roughly 75% of power...
This is a Porsche 911T 996 (apparently with a tuned engine). Note - the curve is almost the same, but the maximum is slightly raised and there is a "plateau". As a result, at rpm from 2000 to 5500 the car holds its power steadily. Driving such a car is a pure pleasure ;-)
Well, and this is a Mercedes, B class. as you can see, the maximum it is capable of is 300 N*m...
Generally speaking, this is not enough for you to develop your own curve. So don't rack your brains and take it from the most suitable ready-made car, well, perhaps, after tweaking it slightly... ;-)
Gas Increasing/Decreasing Curve - Better leave it as is, this affects at most the behavior of the computer opponent when driving this car
Brake increasing/decreasing curve - Also better not to touch. It seems this sets the braking forces (heck knows exactly how)
G transfer factor - when the car turns at sufficient speed, an inertial force directed sideways acts on it. You can think of this as "g-force" - it is measured in G. This parameter sets how strongly this "g-force" affects handling. Usually between 0.1 and 0.55, at higher values it will skid a lot.
Front brake bias - the share of braking that goes to the front wheels. In most cars this ratio is about 6/4. (i.e. 0.6) For those who like spectacular 360-degree spins, it is recommended to move all the brakes to the front (i.e. set 0.85 or higher) Optimal - from 0.5 to 0.65
Gas off factor - how much speed the car will lose when you take your foot off the gas. Usually from 10 to 30% of maximum speed. If you set more - it will be tough, especially in corners. If you set the maximum speed here - the car will stop dead the moment you ease off the gas. At lower values - it will feel like you're driving on ice...(and if you set zero - you'll only stop when you crash into a wall ;-)
Max Breaking deceleration - the same as gas off factor, but taking into account that here you are braking with the brake pedal.
Realism - leave as is. Of course, you can have some fun and try to turn NFS into Carmageddon (damage to maximum), but...you still won't get carmageddon - there are no pedestrians ;-) In general, these values determine how strong the car damage will be and how effective the tuning will be in the game itself. damage between 0 and 1, and tuning between 0.5 and 1.5
Tires/grip tab
The car's tire parameters.
Tire Specs Front, Tire Specs Rear, Tire Wear, and Tire Factor - NO noticeable effect. Set whatever you want.
Lateral acceleration grip multiplier - when the car turns, speed is lost because the velocity vector is not always pointing in the same direction as the car, and the car slides slightly when turning. This value changes the grip with the road when turning. The larger it is, the more grip. Usually between 2.5 and 3.6. At lower values the car jerks to the side the moment you touch the wheel, at higher ones - you have to almost stop to turn.
Aerodynamic downforce multiplier - determines the force of aerodynamic pressure on the car, affects grip with the road. Set in thousandths; for cars without a spoiler - 0.001-0.002, with a spoiler - 0.002-0.006. Too large values will affect speed. It is hard to calculate this parameter, so estimate it by eye, based on how "aerodynamic" your car is ;-)
Front grip bias - the share of grip with the road that goes to the front wheels. You can think of this as the distribution of mass on the front wheels. For all-wheel-drive cars - about 0.5, for rear-wheel-drive - 0.4-0.6. Too low a value will negatively affect braking efficiency, too high - handling.
Wheel base - the distance between the front and rear wheels. Affects handling - "long" cars turn noticeably worse, and also the turning radius - accordingly, "long" cars have a larger one. Measured in meters. Values from 2.0 to 3.5 are recommended
Steering tab
Here are the parameters related to handling.
Min steering acceleration - determines how the car turns. The lower the value, the lower the speed needed to turn. At low values (around 1) the car refuses to obey at high speeds. It is recommended to set 16 or so.
Turning circle radius - the turning radius in meters. Has an effect only when the gas pedal is released. It is recommended to set realistic values.
Turn in ramp - the lower this value, the worse the car turns. At a value of 1 it will not turn at all. The optimal value is 16, at higher ones - handling deteriorates. As a rough idea, you can think of it as the ratio of how quickly the turn is made to the speed of the car at that time.
Turn out ramp - the same as turn in ramp, but it affects the car's handling right after exiting a turn.
Slide multiplier - affects handling, determines the car's ability to move "sideways". If you set a low value here (0.1) - you will no longer be able to slide, the car will immediately flip over. Usually values from 0.5 to 1 - 1 for most cars.
Slide velocity cap - determines the initial speed of sliding depending on the car's speed. Usually around 0.2, the lower the better. However at very low values the car will flip over, at high ones - it will slide "sideways" too often...
Slide assistance - it is unknown what this was intended for. Similar settings are in the game menu, but here it plays no role.
Spin velocity cap - determines the car's behavior when it loses grip with the road. The dependency is similar to Slide velocity cap. Usually around 0.4.
Push factor - a violation of the laws of physics (specifically, the law of conservation of momentum ;-) Determines the share of momentum transmitted by your car to objects colliding with it. The bus, which is almost impossible to push off the road, has this factor at 10000. Realistically, add 1000 here for every 300 kg of car mass.
Low/High Turn factor - determines how the steering behaves at high and low speeds. The larger this value, the more sensitive the steering. At very low values (0.01 and below) turning will be quite difficult. At high values (0.04 and above) the steering becomes too sensitive. Optimal values are 0.02-0.03
Turn Cutoff - it is unknown what these parameters affect. No real effect was noticed from changing them.
Turn speed modifier - determines how much the car's speed decreases when turning. The lower these values, the worse the car handles in turns. Usually the values here are around 0.9-1.0
Gradient understeer - determines the force applied to the turning wheels. The larger the value, the greater the force. Again, it affects handling. Optimal values are 0.98-1.01; at higher/lower values the car is difficult to control.
That's pretty much it... ;-) Now you can safely start turning your car from a means of transport into a luxury (well, or vice versa ;-)
as well as on the help file for VIV Wizard by Mitch Larson
Translation: Sordman aka Baco
BIM.KM.RU